The Alpine Edit

Your guide to life in the mountains—trail running, adventure, and expat living in Chamonix. From visa tips to epic trails and hidden alpine gems, make the Alps.

The Alpine Edit

Category: Life in Chamonix

What to Do in Chamonix in May: A Local’s Guide to the In-Between Season

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On May 5, 2025

In Family life, Favourite Things, Life in Chamonix, Uncategorized

It’s the first week of May here in Chamonix, and the town is deep in its in-between season, that liminal moment between the last of the snow and the first big summer crowds. I’ll admit, when we first moved here I had no idea what to expect at this time of year. Would everything be shut? Would we be stuck indoors?

Since arriving, I’ve been navigating not just a new town, but also an injury. I’m currently dealing with a grade 4 pelvic fracture, which has meant no running or much adventuring for the past few months. It’s been a huge adjustment, especially living in a place so defined by movement and mountains. At the moment, I’m limited to getting around by car, public transport (see my earlier post on how to use the Chamonix buses and trains), and my trusted, though slightly too big for me, crutches.

But if anything, this slower pace has made me more tuned in to what is available. Now that we’ve settled into the rhythm of this quieter time in the valley, I’ve started to figure out what’s actually open, which spots are still serving up great coffee, and how to make the most of May in Chamonix. Whether you’re visiting, new to the area, or just feeling a bit stuck in this awkward in-between, here’s what I’ve discovered so far.

Lake Passy: Cold Water Therapy, Playgrounds and Peace

I’ve been frequenting Lake Passy’s calm waters since we first arrived in the valley. Back then, the temperature was perfect for practising cold water therapy, a routine I started in the UK to help manage my ADHD. It’s been one of the most effective treatments I’ve found. There’s something about stepping into that icy water, the way it forces you to focus on nothing but your breath. For someone who rarely slows down, it’s the perfect mix of challenge and calm. It resets me.

Since the weather warmed up and I started bringing my daughter down to the lake, we’ve been heading to the far end, the ‘beach’ side, and it’s absolutely beautiful. There’s a brilliant play area that’s great for little ones from about 16 months all the way up to age eight, plus safe, easy access to the water. Margot loves nothing more than a cold dip, and her tolerance for chilly water puts my husband to shame.

On weekends, we’ve been taking picnics and enjoying them on the grass while soaking in the buzz of activity. Most people seem to turn up with barbecues. We’ve been meaning to buy one for weeks, but like so many things on my list, that idea is still waiting to be actioned. Soon, I hope.

Evenings at the lake are equally magical. We recently parked up the campervan and joined some friends for a low-key dinner, al fresco dining without the charcoal, but just as lovely.

Bubbling Away at QC Terme Spa

I’ve now been to QC Terme twice: once on a sunny day, and once when it poured. If I had to choose, I’d go for the rainy day every time. There’s something about sitting in a steamy outdoor pool, light drizzle coming down, and Mont Blanc just visible through the clouds that feels both indulgent and oddly cinematic.

On arrival, you’re handed a wristband with your locker number and, if you’ve booked lunch, your slot for eating. The layout of the spa feels like a gentle maze. I tend to start in the ski sauna, which is warm but not overwhelming. It has a 15-minute sand timer, just long enough for the heat to slowly work its way in before it starts to tip into too much. And yes, there’s a cold-water bucket for that dramatic post-sauna splash, which is either refreshing or ridiculous depending on your mood.

Next comes the steam room, and I mean it when I say steamy. Eyes-stinging, can’t-see-your-hand kind of steamy. A plunge pool nearby brings your heart rate back to something resembling normal, and from there it’s on to one of the four relaxation rooms. The hammocks are my favourite. Cocooned in your robe, swaying slightly, it’s the kind of stillness I rarely find elsewhere.

The main floor is the heart of it all: sensory water experiences that feel quietly theatrical. Think waterfalls in dark rooms, warm stone beds with droplets falling rhythmically on your back, alternating cold and hot foot baths, and hydropools with bubbles, jets, and just the right level of low-key buzz. The indoor-outdoor pool is the highlight. Sitting outside in warm, bubbling water with the mountains in front of you feels like a total pause from real life.

Upstairs is quieter. There’s a face gym, a few peaceful corners to rest in, and plenty of loungers if all you want to do is nap.

And then there’s lunch. Honestly, it’s a dream. A fine-dining style buffet with fresh salads, pasta dishes, seasonal veg, cheese, charcuterie, and a dangerously good dessert spread. You eat in your robe, sip herbal tea or a glass of wine, and for a blissful hour, the world feels very far away.

A day pass costs €84, which did make me wince slightly, but it gives you full access to the spa’s three floors. You can also add lunch for €42. It’s a treat, yes, but in my view, one worth making space for.

Parc de Merlet: Wildlife Watching with a View

Parc de Merlet is one of those places that locals always mention with a bit of a knowing smile, as if it’s a hidden gem but one they’re happy to share. Perched above Les Houches at around 1,500 metres, the park offers a chance to see some of the Alps’ most iconic animals, including ibex, chamois, marmots, mouflon, and even a few llamas and alpacas, roaming in a protected, open setting with staggering views of the Mont Blanc massif.

I haven’t made it up there yet, thanks to my current injury, but it’s firmly on our list for the coming weeks. From everything I’ve heard and scrolled through obsessively, it looks like a magical place for children and adults alike. The animals wander freely through alpine pastures, and it’s more of a mindful ramble than a full-on hike. Just being able to sit quietly and spot a marmot with the mountains in the background sounds like the sort of moment I’m craving right now.

There are two main trails through the park: one that’s easier underfoot and one with a bit more climbing, so depending on your mobility or the age of your kids, you can pick a route that suits the day. There’s also a restaurant with a panoramic terrace, which I am absolutely planning to visit, and space for a picnic if you’d rather bring your own lunch.

While I can’t vouch for it from first-hand experience just yet, everything about it seems like a breath of fresh air, quite literally.

Practical Info
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 1 May to 30 June, and 1 to 30 September, 10am to 6pm (closed Mondays).
Open daily from 1 July to 31 August, 9:30am to 7:30pm.
Tickets: €9 for adults, €6 for children (ages 4–15). Booking recommended on weekends and holidays.

Where to Cafe

When May rolls in, one of the big questions becomes: what’s still open? A few favourites close for a spring reset, but some gems stay open and continue to pour excellent coffee and serve even better food. These three are holding the fort beautifully.

Le Petit Social, Les Praz

I’m actually sat in here while writing this, which probably says all you need to know. Tucked away in Les Praz, Le Petit Social is a retro, ski-themed café with a bit of funk. It blends laid-back café culture with après-ski energy and natural wine flair, depending on the time of day.

The brownies are the real reason I keep coming back—fudgy, generous, and hard to beat. Coffee is served with a little biscuit on the side, and the barista makes a perfectly balanced allongée.

I only just clocked that they do paninis too, so I’ll definitely be back for lunch. It’s the kind of spot you can turn up solo, with a laptop, or mid-ramble with friends and always feel welcome.

Bakery L’Al’Pain, Argentière

In my opinion, this is the best bakery in the Chamonix valley. It’s a 25-minute drive from town, and honestly, worth every mile. Since arriving, I’ve been on a quiet but determined mission to find the best Quiche Lorraine in the area, and this one is nothing short of elite. The case is so thin it’s barely there, which means the filling becomes the main event—deep, silky, and balanced. There’s just the right amount of lardons, more of a gentle scattering than a snowball fight, so you get all the flavour without chewing through chunks of meat.

Their croissant selection is exceptional. Every flavour you can imagine, including mini versions, which is perfect if, like me, you want a little taste of something sweet but don’t want to detract from the savouries. I’ve also fallen hard for the tartiflette tartine. It deserves a place in the hall of fame for tartiflette-inspired foods.

The coffee isn’t the star of the show, but who really goes to a bakery just for the coffee? I don’t avoid it, I just wouldn’t make the trip for that alone. Thankfully, they clearly pour their energy into what matters most: the baked goods.

Parking is easy, with spaces just out front, and there’s a great park a five-minute walk away towards the Grands Montets lift.

Couloir, Chamonix Center

Couloir remains one of my all-time favourites for coffee, banana bread, and an easy, unfussy space to sit and watch the world go by. I’ve already written a full post on why I love it here, so I won’t repeat myself, except to say, they’re currently closed for three weeks and sorely missed. If you happen to be in town on 24 May, you’ll likely find me with my face pressed to the glass waiting for that first pour.

My thoughts (so far)

May might not be the Chamonix you see on postcards, but even in this first week, I can already see its quiet charm. The pace has slowed, the town feels softer, and it gives you space to notice things you might usually rush past. Whether you’re nursing an injury like I am, chasing a toddler, or simply enjoying the pause before the summer season, there’s something quite special about this moment in the valley. You just have to know where to look—and maybe bring a warm jumper.

Planes, Trains & Mont Blanc Express: Your Guide to Public Transport in Chamonix

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On April 23, 2025

In Life in Chamonix, Uncategorized

When we first moved to Chamonix, I wasn’t quite prepared for how easy it would be to live without a car. Coming from the UK, I was used to driving everywhere, and I assumed the same would apply here. But the truth is, between the local buses, the train, and a bit of trial and error, getting around the Chamonix valley without a car is completely doable. That said, we do have a car, a Dacia Duster, which is something of a local favourite , and I am genuinely thrilled with it. We don’t use it much in town, but it’s ideal for getting to Sallanches, where I go to the gym, swim, and do a proper food shop.

Whether you’re flying in for a trail race, planning a family ski trip, or thinking about relocating, this guide covers how to get to Chamonix and how to move around once you arrive, all using public transport.

Geneva Arrivals: Your Ticket to the Mountains

Geneva is the closest major airport to Chamonix, and getting from the terminal to the mountains is fairly straightforward. Several coach companies run regular transfers to the valley, and you can usually catch a bus every 30 minutes to an hour, depending on how wedded you are to a particular provider. FlixBus, EasyBus, AlpyBus and SwissTours all offer direct routes, with journey times ranging from just over an hour to around 1 hour 40. If you’re not too picky, you’ll usually find something that suits. Just make sure to book ahead during busy periods as the cheaper seats tend to go quickly.

If you can, go for a flexible ticket. My mother in law, who is the most organised traveller I know and, to her detriment, more organised than easyJet, had a flight delay recently. She didn’t meet her sensibly scheduled bus and ended up spending two hours at the airport, glaring at the departure board and muttering things I won’t repeat here. The moral of the story? A flexible booking can save you a lot of stress, especially if your flight’s cutting it fine.

Chugging Through Chamonix: The Train Lowdown

This is the valley’s main train line, running between Saint-Gervais-les-Bains and Martigny in Switzerland, with local stops in Chamonix, Argentière and Vallorcine. I’ve only used it between Pèlerins and Argentière, which covers most of the valley. It’s a solid option if you’re avoiding busy buses or want to hop between villages without driving.

The train can be a bit of a waiting game at times. It stops in both Vallorcine and Chamonix Centre for around 16 minutes, so if you’re planning to travel straight through either station, be prepared to sit tight for a while.

If you’ve got a buggy with you, be warned. Some trains are level with the platform and easy to board, while others have a couple of awkward steps. And unlike in the UK, don’t expect anyone to rush over and help. The staff are, well… French. Friendly enough, but not exactly leaping into action when they see a pram.

Still, once you’re on, it’s warm, usually on time, and free with a carte d’hôte, which you should get from your accommodation.

Victoria’s Top Tip:

At the moment, the section between Chamonix Centre and Saint-Gervais isn’t operating. There’s a bus replacement service instead. I haven’t tried the replacement myself yet, so I can’t vouch for how smooth it is. But if you’re travelling with kids or kit, it’s probably worth factoring in a bit of extra time.

It Might Come, It Might Not: Buses in Chamonix

If you’re staying in Chamonix without a car, the buses are a really helpful way to get around. The main route is Line 1, which connects Servoz to Le Tour and passes through all the major spots like Chamonix Centre, Les Praz, Argentière and Montroc.

I haven’t used the buses loads yet, but from what I’ve seen, they’re generally reliable. Just be aware that they’re not super frequent. Depending on the time of day or season, you might be looking at one every 30 minutes or so, and fewer outside of peak hours. It’s worth checking the timetable before heading out, especially if you’ve got kids or are aiming for something time-sensitive.

Now, my favourite (still unused) bus is Le Mulet. I just love it. The name, the shape, the whole vibe. It’s a tiny electric shuttle that loops around Chamonix town and it’s completely free. I can’t wait to take it purely for the novelty.

In winter, there are extra ski buses that link up the lifts and car parks. In summer, many of the main buses are bike-friendly, which is ideal if you’re heading out for a ride and don’t fancy cycling all the way home again.

The Fine Art of Getting a Ticket (Without Crying)

Now, about the carte d’hôte. This is where things get a bit less straightforward.

If you’re visiting Chamonix and staying in local accommodation, you should be given a carte d’hôte. In theory, it gives you free access to the valley’s trains and buses. In practice, it’s not quite that simple.

For the buses, you still need an actual ticket. It’s not enough to show your carte d’hôte to the driver. You’ll need a valid ticket or day pass to board, otherwise you’ll be asked to pay €2 or hop off.

As for how to get that ticket, avoid the app or the online system unless you fancy a good dose of frustration. The easiest way is to go to the machines or speak to someone at the desks near Plan B Hotel in Chamonix Sud. There, you can buy a discounted day pass using your carte d’hôte, with a one-day minimum.

If you’re here longer-term, the resident’s card is much more straightforward. It gives you proper unlimited access to the local transport network, and you only need to renew it once a year.

Ditching the Faff: Enter the E-Bike

We do have the Via Cham resident card, which gives us access to all the buses and local trains, and for the most part, it works well. But even with that, we decided to invest in an electric bike.

It just makes life easier. Popping into town for a coffee, doing the school run, or heading to the market doesn’t need a timetable. We don’t have to plan our day around bus schedules, and it’s quicker than waiting around, especially when it’s raining, snowing, or just one of those days where everything feels a bit much.

It also means Thatcher can run alongside us, which is great for keeping him active without needing a full-blown outing. And honestly, I think we use it more than we thought we would. It’s become one of those things that makes daily life in the valley feel a little more fluid.

Do You Really Need a Car in Chamonix?

Chamonix is one of those places where you really can get by without a car, but it does take a bit of local knowledge and the odd workaround. Between the buses, the Mont Blanc Express, and the help of a good e-bike, we’ve managed just fine. It’s not always seamless, but there’s something quite freeing about not relying on a car every day. Whether you’re here for a weekend or settling in long-term, a bit of planning and flexibility goes a long way. And when all else fails, there’s always Le Mulet.

Caffeine, Curry, and Crêpes: Chamonix’s Must-Eats

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On April 11, 2025

In Life in Chamonix

Caffeine, Crêpes & Curry: One Month of Eating in Chamonix

Having settled in Chamonix for just over a month, we’ve eagerly embarked on the delightful journey of exploring its vibrant culinary scene. From the perfect long black to picnic-bench pizza, here’s our roundup of the coffee, cake, and food spots that have truly earned their place in our daily rhythm.

Coffee (with a side of Cake)

1. Moody Coffee Roasters
It didn’t take long for Moody’s to stake its claim on my morning rhythm. Tucked a few steps from the Aiguille du Midi lift, it’s the kind of place that might feel intimidating if it weren’t so genuinely good. The staff are unflinchingly cool, the long black is basically personality-altering, and the cakes somehow always look like they’ve just been painted.

During UTMB week, the queue snakes out the door and halfway to Italy. Today-off-season, snow-melting it’s just out the door. Few.

The coffee is roasted locally in Les Bossons, which means your beans have travelled fewer kilometres than most people’s hiking boots. It’s not cheap, but they sweeten the deal.. literally.. with a tiny brownie bite on the side. Dangerous. It can’t be that eye-watering though, because I keep going back. Repeatedly. Happily.

The cinnamon buns come out warm, crowned with caramelised pecans and laced with sticky joy. I live for the middle bit. This morning I was later than usual and had to go rogue with the banana bread-more cake than breakfast, but blogging is hard work and honestly, I’m not sorry.

Inside, it’s intimate and cosy. There’s not much laptop real estate, so it’s not your place for long work calls or deep focus-but for a five-minute blog session and a bit of world-watching? Perfect. And who doesnt need an excuse to switch off the tech these days!?

2. Red Bread
I stumbled across the Red Bread truck on my first Saturday in Chamonix, originally on a mission for the yummiest Beaufort to fill my weekend baguette. It’s a small, unassuming, cash only truck.. easy to overlook if not for the scent of fresh baking wafting from within. The coffee here is consistently delicious, but it’s the cinnamon buns, drenched generously with hot icing, that are truly outrageous. They’re the kind of treat that turns casual weekend strolls into deliberate pilgrimages.

3. Couloir
A new establishment born from a partnership of mastery between the Moody’s team and @chefnickrenn. What I love about Couloir is the thoughtful savoury twist complementing the sweet offerings I’ve come to enjoy at Moody’s. Think fluffy, perfectly filled focaccia ‘Sandos,’ warming soups, and baguettes ready to grab and go. It’s faultless, effortless, and simply perfect.

Couloir offers a bit more space, ideal for lingering. It is perfect for nursing your coffee and sando for an hour, gazing out at the mountain views.

The Apline Action: throughout the rest of April, their loyalty scheme lets you collect stamps at both Moody’s and Couloir to redeem your seventh coffee free at Couloir. I’ve been redeeming too many already. Wallet, I’m sorry-but it’s all in the name of research.

Dinner

1. Annapurna
Annapurna was our first dining experience upon arriving in Chamonix, and it instantly set the bar high. This fantastically popular Indian restaurant boasts two bustling locations within just 150m of each other, and it’s immediately clear why. The atmosphere is electric, the service warm and friendly, and the curry fiery and unforgettable. My spicy jalfrezi with large, juicy gambas was perfectly rich and satisfying. Their fluffy, fresh naan bread, particularly the peshwari, expertly balanced sweetness and savoury. Margot devoured the dhal, popadoms, and onion bhaji; I had hoped to share the dhal, but who am I to argue with toddler approval?

2. Mumma’s
This pan-Asian fusion spot immediately won us over. Imagine dishes like salmon sashimi with ponzu, Jerusalem artichoke, and sticky teriyaki edamame beans. At first glance, the menu might appear intimidating even for Asian food enthusiasts, but the flavours are perfectly balanced and approachable. There’s a thoughtful mix of vegetarian and meaty options, catering ideally to our family’s varied tastes. The decor is stylishly dark without being too dim, creating a perfect dinner vibe. Highly recommended.

3. La Roulotte
Like Red Bread, La Roulotte is another culinary gem on wheels, offering a quirky combination of pizzas and empanadas. Despite seeming unusual at first, the pairing works perfectly. The pizzas are generously topped, achieving that elusive balance between hearty and crisp without turning soggy. Their empanadas are delightful; I recommend adding hot sauce. I tried the Savoyard, chicken, and onion options and negotiated a fair trade for a slice of pizza from Sion, purely in the name of market research. Seating is simple picnic benches and no high chairs, so it might be tricky with little ones.

Lunch

1. Le Shack
Le Shack is Mumma’s vibrant little sibling, serving delightful bites like kimchi toasties, rotis, and standout gyozas. It’s perfect for leisurely lunches in the sun, especially paired with sticky rice. The service isn’t exactly lightning fast, but let’s face it, where else do you have to be? With comfy seating, mountain views, and sunshine, the leisurely pace is more bonus than bug. It’s the kind of place that makes you question whether returning to real life is absolutely necessary.

2. Ella
Ella might be an unassuming Mediterranean wrap shop, but don’t let its simplicity fool you. Their chicken is marinated in what I assume is bottled happiness, and choosing a sauce feels like picking your favourite child; impossible and slightly guilt-inducing. We bravely tackled the falafel too, freshly fried balls of crunchy goodness that almost justified ordering a second portion. Seating is minimalistic, a few cozy spots indoors and a well-placed bench outside perfect for watching the world stroll by. Solid 10/10, would absolutely wrap again.

3. La Ferme
Yes, La Ferme might lean towards the touristy side, but when you’re craving a no-nonsense omelette or a crispy crêpe, touristy suddenly becomes charmingly efficient. Service here is quicker than my decision to order dessert, and the omelettes arrive perfectly crisp and golden with a tiny salad that’s purely decorative; but hey, vegetables are vegetables, right? Ideal for a swift refuel before you tackle your next Chamonix adventure.

Final Thoughts

One month in, and we’ve happily eaten our way through Chamonix. From our first cinnamon bun to our last spoonful of dhal, this town’s food scene has been every bit as scenic, spicy, and satisfying as the views. We’ve found comfort, surprise, and a few new obsessions… all in the name of ‘research’. More to come, of course. We’re not done eating yet.

A Week in My Life as a Mum, Runner & Expat

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On April 2, 2025

In Family life, Life in Chamonix, Running

Life in Chamonix is beautiful, but it’s not slow. With a toddler, a training schedule, and a mountain town to navigate in French, no two days look exactly the same. But here’s what a typical week tends to look like for me, in this season of motherhood, movement, and starting over.

Mornings: Coffee, Chaos & Nursery Runs

Most days start early. Margot needs to be at nursery by 8am, and it’s about a mile from our chalet, so there’s not much room for faff. But we always carve out time for family breakfast. It’s one of my non-negotiables. Sion and I share a pot of coffee while Margot tucks into her beloved Weetabix (brought over from the UK and now rationed like gold dust).

Once she’s dressed and ready, we head out for the nursery drop. We either walk or hop on the local train for one stop, depending on how much time (and energy) we have that day.

Mid-Mornings: Tidy, Train, Breathe

After drop-off, I head back to reset the house. Quick tidy-up, beds made, crumbs swept. Then it’s time for my first training session of the day, usually 1 to 2 hours depending on where I am in my cycle or race plan. It might be strength work, treadmill intervals, or heading out onto the trails (yes, even in the snow).

Afterwards: shower, eat, breathe. I usually make something simple but delicious for lunch; fuel is everything when you’re juggling mileage and parenting. And on days I need a little joy? Wandering to a local bakery for a slice of quiche Lorraine has become a guilty pleasure. I never knew I liked it, but wow… delicious.

Afternoons: Recovery & Real Life

Some days I’ll have a second session. Others… I won’t sugarcoat it, it’s a battle. Whether I’m dragging tired legs or a tired brain, it’s not always graceful. But it’s real.

Other afternoons are spent in therapy, with my dietician, coaching my lovely runners, or occasionally just plugged into the Normatec boots trying to feel like a human again.

Sometimes, I’ll prep something fun for Margot like a den in the living room, blankets draped across chairs, ready for her to discover when she gets home. (See photo evidence!)

Evenings: Supper, Stories & Monopoly Deal

Nursery pick-up is 6pm sharp, so I try to have supper prepped before I leave. It makes the evenings flow so much more easily, and gives us more time to be together.

Dinner is always a bit of a juggling act. Sion is vegetarian and I’m… not. So I often make something adaptable: veggie base with added protein for me, or side dishes we can mix and match. Margot eats what we eat (usually with more cheese).

After dinner, it’s bath, bedtime, and Margot’s evening prayers. Then it’s time for grown-up games, our current favourites are Monopoly Deal, gin rummy, and backgammon. Low-stakes competition is our love language.

Weekends: Real Life, Rebalanced

Saturdays are often Mum & Margot time, Sion loves a long cycle and we all love him doing this. Sundays are our family day, though they’re still wrapped around training blocks. Being an athlete is full-time, seven days a week… but weekends give us longer windows to be together.

Honestly, they’re also the hardest sometimes. Margot’s not at nursery, I’ve still got sessions to do, and there’s no “clocking off.” But they’re memory-making days, and I wouldn’t trade them.

So That’s a Week (Sort Of)

Of course, no week is really typical. There are tantrums, cancelled plans, weather curveballs, surprise admin, and nights where the only run I manage is the one to the freezer for ice cream. But at the heart of it all is this: movement, intention, and a deep love for this little mountain life we’re building.

More soon…. from race prep to recovery days, and the truth about training through tiredness.

The Alpine Edit

Sticky post

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On March 20, 2025

In Family life, Favourite Things, Life in Chamonix, Moving Abroad, Recipes, Running, Van Life

Welcome to The Alpine Edit! I’m Victoria, an expat, mum, and blogger navigating life in Chamonix after swapping Bristol for the mountains. Here, I share the raw realities of expat life, trail running adventures, family-friendly spots, and my passion for food and well-being. Whether you’re a runner, a fellow expat, or just mountain-curious, you’re in the right place!

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