Caffeine, Crêpes & Curry: One Month of Eating in Chamonix
Having settled in Chamonix for just over a month, we’ve eagerly embarked on the delightful journey of exploring its vibrant culinary scene. From the perfect long black to picnic-bench pizza, here’s our roundup of the coffee, cake, and food spots that have truly earned their place in our daily rhythm.
Coffee (with a side of Cake)
1. Moody Coffee Roasters
It didn’t take long for Moody’s to stake its claim on my morning rhythm. Tucked a few steps from the Aiguille du Midi lift, it’s the kind of place that might feel intimidating if it weren’t so genuinely good. The staff are unflinchingly cool, the long black is basically personality-altering, and the cakes somehow always look like they’ve just been painted.
During UTMB week, the queue snakes out the door and halfway to Italy. Today-off-season, snow-melting it’s just out the door. Few.
The coffee is roasted locally in Les Bossons, which means your beans have travelled fewer kilometres than most people’s hiking boots. It’s not cheap, but they sweeten the deal.. literally.. with a tiny brownie bite on the side. Dangerous. It can’t be that eye-watering though, because I keep going back. Repeatedly. Happily.
The cinnamon buns come out warm, crowned with caramelised pecans and laced with sticky joy. I live for the middle bit. This morning I was later than usual and had to go rogue with the banana bread-more cake than breakfast, but blogging is hard work and honestly, I’m not sorry.
Inside, it’s intimate and cosy. There’s not much laptop real estate, so it’s not your place for long work calls or deep focus-but for a five-minute blog session and a bit of world-watching? Perfect. And who doesnt need an excuse to switch off the tech these days!?
2. Red Bread
I stumbled across the Red Bread truck on my first Saturday in Chamonix, originally on a mission for the yummiest Beaufort to fill my weekend baguette. It’s a small, unassuming, cash only truck.. easy to overlook if not for the scent of fresh baking wafting from within. The coffee here is consistently delicious, but it’s the cinnamon buns, drenched generously with hot icing, that are truly outrageous. They’re the kind of treat that turns casual weekend strolls into deliberate pilgrimages.
3. Couloir
A new establishment born from a partnership of mastery between the Moody’s team and @chefnickrenn. What I love about Couloir is the thoughtful savoury twist complementing the sweet offerings I’ve come to enjoy at Moody’s. Think fluffy, perfectly filled focaccia ‘Sandos,’ warming soups, and baguettes ready to grab and go. It’s faultless, effortless, and simply perfect.
Couloir offers a bit more space, ideal for lingering. It is perfect for nursing your coffee and sando for an hour, gazing out at the mountain views.
The Apline Action: throughout the rest of April, their loyalty scheme lets you collect stamps at both Moody’s and Couloir to redeem your seventh coffee free at Couloir. I’ve been redeeming too many already. Wallet, I’m sorry-but it’s all in the name of research.
Dinner
1. Annapurna
Annapurna was our first dining experience upon arriving in Chamonix, and it instantly set the bar high. This fantastically popular Indian restaurant boasts two bustling locations within just 150m of each other, and it’s immediately clear why. The atmosphere is electric, the service warm and friendly, and the curry fiery and unforgettable. My spicy jalfrezi with large, juicy gambas was perfectly rich and satisfying. Their fluffy, fresh naan bread, particularly the peshwari, expertly balanced sweetness and savoury. Margot devoured the dhal, popadoms, and onion bhaji; I had hoped to share the dhal, but who am I to argue with toddler approval?
2. Mumma’s
This pan-Asian fusion spot immediately won us over. Imagine dishes like salmon sashimi with ponzu, Jerusalem artichoke, and sticky teriyaki edamame beans. At first glance, the menu might appear intimidating even for Asian food enthusiasts, but the flavours are perfectly balanced and approachable. There’s a thoughtful mix of vegetarian and meaty options, catering ideally to our family’s varied tastes. The decor is stylishly dark without being too dim, creating a perfect dinner vibe. Highly recommended.
3. La Roulotte
Like Red Bread, La Roulotte is another culinary gem on wheels, offering a quirky combination of pizzas and empanadas. Despite seeming unusual at first, the pairing works perfectly. The pizzas are generously topped, achieving that elusive balance between hearty and crisp without turning soggy. Their empanadas are delightful; I recommend adding hot sauce. I tried the Savoyard, chicken, and onion options and negotiated a fair trade for a slice of pizza from Sion, purely in the name of market research. Seating is simple picnic benches and no high chairs, so it might be tricky with little ones.
Lunch
1. Le Shack
Le Shack is Mumma’s vibrant little sibling, serving delightful bites like kimchi toasties, rotis, and standout gyozas. It’s perfect for leisurely lunches in the sun, especially paired with sticky rice. The service isn’t exactly lightning fast, but let’s face it, where else do you have to be? With comfy seating, mountain views, and sunshine, the leisurely pace is more bonus than bug. It’s the kind of place that makes you question whether returning to real life is absolutely necessary.
2. Ella
Ella might be an unassuming Mediterranean wrap shop, but don’t let its simplicity fool you. Their chicken is marinated in what I assume is bottled happiness, and choosing a sauce feels like picking your favourite child; impossible and slightly guilt-inducing. We bravely tackled the falafel too, freshly fried balls of crunchy goodness that almost justified ordering a second portion. Seating is minimalistic, a few cozy spots indoors and a well-placed bench outside perfect for watching the world stroll by. Solid 10/10, would absolutely wrap again.
3. La Ferme
Yes, La Ferme might lean towards the touristy side, but when you’re craving a no-nonsense omelette or a crispy crêpe, touristy suddenly becomes charmingly efficient. Service here is quicker than my decision to order dessert, and the omelettes arrive perfectly crisp and golden with a tiny salad that’s purely decorative; but hey, vegetables are vegetables, right? Ideal for a swift refuel before you tackle your next Chamonix adventure.
Final Thoughts
One month in, and we’ve happily eaten our way through Chamonix. From our first cinnamon bun to our last spoonful of dhal, this town’s food scene has been every bit as scenic, spicy, and satisfying as the views. We’ve found comfort, surprise, and a few new obsessions… all in the name of ‘research’. More to come, of course. We’re not done eating yet.
